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Author Topic: Norinco 86s Restoration  (Read 663 times)
Sputnik90
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« on: March 08, 2020, 09:53:14 PM »

I'm now the proud owner of an 86s parts kit.

That is, some vandal cut one apart, and I intend to restore it.

I'm trying for authenticity, but this will necessarily involve substitutions, mostly of US-made parts, to be 922(r) compliant.
US-made receiver, trigger group.  I'll have to make, myself, the gas piston (unless I can drill a KNS adjustable one in the right spot), the buttstock, and charging handle.  That leaves the original pistol grip, though I'll probably substitute a shorter one for actual range use.

The buttstock looks to be challenging.  Might have someone print one in steel that looks like sheet metal, rather than doing the compound bending and spot-welding this would require.
Oddly, the dust cover looks like the part I won't be able to get right.  It looks just like an AK one, except there's no cutout for the charging handle.  Who would stamp one without that cut just for me, though?

Pretty sure I can splice a wire to the cut trigger wire, though I haven't tried yet.


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Sputnik90
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« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2020, 09:56:55 PM »

So far, I've done some rust removal, and removed the flash hider, cleaning rod, the receiver chunk, and the pistol grip.

In that order of difficulty.  Would you believe the grip had a 1/4-28 screw in the metric AK nut?  It sorta worked, too.  Only took two days to get it all the way out.

When the receiver was destroyed they ground the serial number off the trunnion, but helpfully left it stamped in the front handguard.  (Low 300's).  I might e-pencil it back on the trunnion.


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Sputnik90
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« Reply #2 on: March 08, 2020, 10:06:06 PM »

I do need some help from someone with an 86s, though.  I have questions.

1.  Can someone get me photos, or measurements, of the attachment (rivets, I assume) of the buttstock piece to the receiver?  I'm going to have to solid-model a lookalike, but if I can put the holes in the right places, another could be made to be someone's replacement part, if they ever need it.

2.  This guy is selling what he says is an 86s trigger part:  https://www.gunbroker.com/item/856095556  Is that right?  I thought the trigger piece had a little horizontal cylinder that the trigger wire wraps around.  Is that a separate piece, then?  How are they attached?

3.  Will somebody please, PLEASE tell me how to get the blasted safety lever out and separate the lower handguard?  I'm pretty sure I have to have the safety in the horizontal (full-up) position, but then what?  No amount of cajoling or pounding has gotten the safety to start coming out.  What's the trick?  Or do I just need to apply more force?  I don't want to try more, but....


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Sputnik90
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« Reply #3 on: March 13, 2020, 11:55:14 PM »

 
   Able to answer my own #3.

   (Still need help with #1 and 2, though.  Please?)

   For further disassembly past the field-strip, there are TWO tricks.  First, with the safety full aft, you slide the gas tube aft.  In my case, it was rusted pretty firmly in place; I needed to use the Hammer of Persuasion, with of course the Block of Wood of What-Did-I-Do as an intermediary to keep from marring the finish.  Further marring the finish, anyway.

   Then, you rotate the safety lever full FORWARD (you can, with the gas tube out of the way) and it (the safety lever) pops right out.  The handguard slides right off at this point.

   Simple.

   Time for moar rust removal!



   You can see here, installed, is my "short" grip.  It's modeled to look just like the old one, but with the pommel at the bottom removed.  This doesn't make it any harder to hold, but will make it vastly easier to insert a 30-round magazine.  Never fear, I've also restored the original grip, and will preserve it.  But the short one will be the one that makes trips to the range.

   Another observation, in passing; the front trigger return spring is probably too strong; it adds 3 lbs to the pull all by itself!  I'm tempted to cut a loop out of the spring...but I don't want to change more than I have to, so I'll leave it alone.


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Sputnik90
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« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2020, 07:21:51 PM »

 
Low contrast, sorry.

First attempt at modding dust cover to 86s standard is by using...fiberglass.  Seems to work well, and passes impact testing (I hammer it against the ground).  How it deals with heat...well, we'll see.
As long as I'm working with glass, though, a couple thin layers on top might make it more palatable to lay your face on it when it's been sitting out in the hot sun.

Meanwhile, a KNS piston DOES have enough meat in it, in the right place, to get a hole drilled through it to mount the charging handle.

Charging handle is titanium, to cut down on conduction.  With a thin plastic piece to get a more representative shape, and again to cut down on hot parts where you're supposed to handle them.



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Sputnik90
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« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2020, 09:18:33 PM »

Solid modeling of the replacement stock and rear trunnion.

Based on internet photos, the back of the receiver is not only cut at an angle, but the ends are also folded 90 degrees.  That makes sense; you don't want the sharp aft edge cutting into you as you shoot.  But that means that the trunnion has to capture around thin rail-like sections in two different planes.  I couldn't figure out how to make that work with a one-piece trunnion...but I can make it work with two pieces.



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Sputnik90
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« Reply #6 on: March 21, 2020, 09:19:44 PM »

And the stock.



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Sputnik90
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« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2020, 05:15:33 PM »

Waiting for parts, so designed and printed a polymer see-through no-drill rail for the 86s.  Looking forward to trying it out someday.


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Sputnik90
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« Reply #8 on: March 27, 2020, 01:20:30 PM »


Also modeled the flash hider, since I had a known-good one (though the threads are a bit chewed up).

I don't actually need another, but...does anyone else?  I think this can be printed in steel with usable threads.



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Jack Flag
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« Reply #9 on: March 27, 2020, 08:44:13 PM »

This is a cool project. Smiley
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Sputnik90
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« Reply #10 on: March 30, 2020, 06:41:00 PM »

This is a cool project. Smiley

   Thanks!  I'm having fun with it.  Appreciate the input -- I was feeling like I was just mumbling to myself here.
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Sputnik90
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« Reply #11 on: April 01, 2020, 02:50:31 AM »


Trigger (at the aft end) is a RAK-1 with a hole drilled in the side, tapped for a tapered M3 screw, and with a 1/4" spacer.  The gap between the M3 screw and the spacer will capture the wire.

And of course, the trigger itself had to be ground off.



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