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Author Topic: problem with SAR tavor  (Read 1279 times)
dashotgun
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« on: September 15, 2018, 10:30:08 AM »

Probably over 1000 rounds in it.   I shoot it intermittently.  I always use federal ammo not from the same batch. Both 55 grainand 62 grain.  Variety of mags.  recently it began to stove pipe and bad and jam.  I clean it after every range session but I took off the  claw retractor and clean it and it functioned okay.  I thought it was solved.  Last range session  it was back to jamming.  The pin ejector seems stiff I want o remove it and clean it( I did oil the crap out of it but have not  gone to the range since ( hurricane florence I am in NC)  The armorers manual says  you can remove the pin extractor but  does not show how.  Anybody have a diagram or can walk me through that?  it has to remove from the bolt face there is no way to get behind it to drive it out. TIA<a href="http://" target="_blank">http://</a>


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« Last Edit: September 15, 2018, 02:28:38 PM by dashotgun » Logged
Aussie E
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« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2018, 01:09:57 PM »

Is it double feeding like you're double posting, or some other type of misfeed?

AE
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dashotgun
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« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2018, 02:19:47 PM »

sorry about the double post. answer funny but not helpful Tongue
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cciman
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« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2018, 06:31:27 PM »

Have you made any changes to the case deflector or springs? 

Is stovepiping the only symptom?
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dashotgun
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« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2018, 08:06:31 AM »

no
yes

 I think it is the  pin ejector  it was stiff it is not called for it  to be lubed in the manual. I have worked some lube into it and it ejects a spent shell   without a stove pipe.  I am reluctant to drive it  out with a punch since it is a  gunsmith only part.  I would love to know why IWI changed the design to two ejectors side by side on the later models of the sar and I believe the x95 comes that way.  Not much help here but a big discussion on the facebook tavor group.  In any event seems like I should discuss this with IWI
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HBeretta
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« Reply #5 on: September 16, 2018, 11:53:33 AM »

Is it double feeding like you're double posting, or some other type of misfeed?

AE

lol...i needed this today
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Rastoff
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« Reply #6 on: September 16, 2018, 05:13:25 PM »

The armorers manual says  you can remove the pin extractor but  does not show how.  Anybody have a diagram or can walk me through that?
I think I can help you.

Remove the Recoil Mechanism and bolt by following steps 1-3 of paragraph 14.2.1 in the manual (page 74 in my book).

Now that you have the bolt out, lets look at it more closely:

This may look backwards from your bolt. This is a left eject bolt.

The green arrow is pointing to the Extractor Pin. I believe this is what you were referring to as the "claw retractor" in the OP. This pin can be pushed out to remove the extractor. Be careful not to lose the pin. It's just a smooth pin and comes out easier than you might expect. I dropped mine on the floor and it took a few minutes to locate again. Remove the extractor and clean it. There is a small green part that is made out of some kind of rubber or silicone. Don't lose that because it's what puts pressure on the extractor. Without it the gun will fail to extract at some point.

The white arrow is pointing to the pin you're most interested in. This is a very small roll pin and it holds the ejector(s) in the bolt. You will need a very small punch to get this one out. A 1/16" or 1.5mm punch is what you want. This one will take some more force to remove. The ejector(s) is under some pressure from the spring behind it. Once the pin is removed, the punch will be the only thing holding the ejector in. When you remove the punch the ejector will come out with some force. Do this part in a box and you won't lose the ejector(s).

I have the single ejector bolt and have not removed mine. It should be stiff and difficult to move because the spring behind it is strong. If yours is sticking, it definitely needs to be cleaned or replaced.

Putting it back together will be a challenge. You will need to hold the ejector(s) and spring compressed a little while you install the roll pin. This can probably be done with a C clamp or just by pushing against a hard surface while the roll pin is installed.

If you have any questions or this isn't clear, just ask. I'll do my best to help.



Just for the record, this procedure is detailed on page 119 and 120 of the Technical Manual (Armorer's Manual), ECHELON B-AUTHORIZED OPERATIONS FOR BOLT CARRIER DISASSEMBLY.
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dashotgun
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« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2019, 01:24:51 PM »

long lost replay and follow up.  I ended  up sending the gun back to IWI.  they cleaned it and replaced the extractor  spring and pronounced it fixed  after test firing it and sent it back.  Took it to the range and it still stove pipped.  Sent back  and asked them to put in the double  pin  ejector they said okay and they sent it back with the original bolt and no new bolt.  I sent it back and got the new bolt gun  and works perfectly.  Despite the bobbles.  they are a super company to work with.  I am still not sure what the problem was  but there must have been a reason they changed the design to tow  ejector pins from one.  they said they see alot  of clogged gas tubes  I am not sure mine was and what to do about it  if so.  I don't routinely clean the gas tube I have stopped using the foam copper defouler  I was using  before as it would foam into the gas tube and not get cleaned..
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TNC
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« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2019, 11:36:30 PM »

Is the gas tube not capable of being cleaned by the user when the gun is disassembled down to the barrel group?  I've not torn mine down to that level and was not aware that IWI identified a common problem being fouled gas tubes until this post.

That is a hollow gas tube in the barrel group between the two rail connecting bases...isn't it?  I just haven't torn down to that point.

It would seem a cleaner or chemical not corrosive or damaging to any of the exterior or interior finishes could be sprayed into the gas tube and blown out with compressed air.  I don't think enough "gunk" of size or composition would clog the gas port as long as enough fluid/chemical were flushed in conjunction with compressed air.  Just speculating here.

Anyone know how big the opening of the gas tube is where it contacts the op-rod?  This would of course impact how easy it would be to.  It's not that I'm too lazy to tear mine down, but I figure others here already have this info at hand from deeper delving into this rifle.
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