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Author Topic: X95 Gunsmith troubles  (Read 3676 times)
Rastoff
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« Reply #20 on: February 01, 2018, 01:12:05 AM »

Just an update, iwi says I'm good. Put another hundred through it and shoots and groups similar to pre gunsmith visit. Thanks for all the help guys. Looking forward to putting many more rounds through it this year.
Sounds good.

When I first read your original post, I was concerned that some damage was done. However, the follow up discussion and pictures have allayed my fears. I'm sure your gun is good. IWI seems to agree. Now go put lots of rounds down range.
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diescheize11
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« Reply #21 on: February 03, 2018, 03:46:54 PM »

Yah buddy. All is good mechanically. Love this rifle so far but the only thing that concerns me slightly is how the rail system mounts. In my experience(which isn't a lot) more mounting screws equal more variables and shift points for optics down to the barrel. The manual does say to use loctite on the 2 sets of screws underneath the rail. Iwi (on phone) said use none.

Honestly I don't have enough rounds through it yet to form a legit opinion on this and there's plenty of you all who do, with out issue so I'm really not concerned. Also if this is the same method of mounting they have on the real deal MTAR I think is gone through the testing to be certified for the real hardcore s***.
« Last Edit: February 03, 2018, 03:49:06 PM by diescheize11 » Logged
DubageL
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« Reply #22 on: February 03, 2018, 04:28:06 PM »

FYI, the top rail mounts the same way on the Tavor and X95. The key is to make sure the rail grabbers are seated correctly on the barrel mounts, then properly torqued with a little loctite. Then do the same to the top rail when mounting it on those grabber mounts. Make sure itís not binding on the top of the receiver and fully seating on the mounts. The IDFís ITL/MARS sight was designed to use on the Tavors and mounts directly to the barrel mounts. No rail grabbers or rail.
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downeyg
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« Reply #23 on: February 04, 2018, 10:48:09 AM »

Please do not take this as an insult but always go with your first instinct. There is a good reason for having it.  I have walked away from having work done when I have had the slightest doubt about the competence of the person doing the work.  There are a lot of so-called gunsmiths out there that are willing to screw up your gun and get payed good money to do so.  Back in the mid 80ís, I had a S&W model 29, completely screwed up by a so-called professional gunsmith out of California.  He was featured in a popular gun magazine for putting slab sided bull barrels on the model 29.  I sent my pistol to him and should have listened to the first warning signal about him.  He called me to tell me he could not remove the barrel from my pistol because of the newer crush threading S&W used, instead of pinning the barrels.  He said he would send the pistol to S&W, they agreed to remove the barrel.  I should have said no thanks at this point and saved my money.  Well, I let him go forward and received a disaster back.   The barrel looked good but a removable weight bolted to the bottom had poor bluing and light pitting.  I called him and he told me to send the pistol back.  I decided not to send it back but to have a local good gunsmith re-blue the entire pistol for $60, so everything will match.  The bluing job was perfect but it uncovered a seriously dangerous flaw with the re-barreling job.  When I was inspecting the bluing job at home, I decided to try and trist the barrel with my hands in a direction that would unscrew it.  To my surprise, with very little effort, the barrel started unscrewing.  When the barrel was unscrewed to the 1/2 way point, it pulled straight out of the frame.  I observed some type of thread lock residue on the barrel threads.  To say I was pissed-off is an understatement.  Once I calmed down I called Doc Jones and got the following crock of crap explanation:  S&W told him that when they have barrels that are too loose for a frame, they use red Loctite to secure them in place.  I told Doc Jones in a nice way that he was full of crap and I wanted a refund.  I sent the barrel with itsí weight back it him and got a refund.  Before sending the barrel back I determined he made the threaded shank of the barrel way undersized.

So, I had a frame with no barrel in one hand and an original barrel in the other hand.  I made vice blocks for the frame and wrench blocks for the barrel, out of rock maple.  I attached the barrel to the frame with a lot of effort, carefully timing it perfectly.  I ensured the frame was not sprung out of shape.  I then had the entire pistol re-blued again because Doc Jones sent the original barrel back scratched up.  So, $60 more dollars later, I had my pistol back in original condition.  I was out a total of $145, $60 x 2 for bluing and $25 for shipping.  I learned two very important lessons.  Number one was go with your first instinct and number two was gun magazines do not care what they print as long as they receive a benifit from it.  Sorry for the long-winded story, I am bored.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2018, 10:59:37 AM by downeyg » Logged
diescheize11
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« Reply #24 on: February 04, 2018, 12:46:23 PM »

Yep, like others have said... No sense in rushing and risking a job or trying to pinch penny's... I avoid Smith work whenever possible and I have learned lessons.
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hyperpm
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« Reply #25 on: August 07, 2018, 09:53:20 PM »

Purchased X95 few weeks ago. Installed Manticore Arms cantilever foreend and during removal of x95 stock forend, only the external teflon ring was present. The 2nd internal teflon ring wasn't there as shown in the Manticore Arms DIY install. Anyone else have missing 2nd internal teflon ring? Didn't matter since purpose was to have free floating barrel with the new cantilever forend. I also installed faux suppressor. Grouped pretty good at 100 yards. Two issues I've noticed:

1) Even with the raised top rail from the new front end, I couldn't really get comfortable with my cheek weld and the squarish oem butt stock. I was using Primary Arms 1-8X ACSS scope. Possible solutions is to a) swap out current scope with my Primary Arms 5X scope that sits a bit higher and 2nd, install Maniticore Arms curved and slimmer butt stock.

2) 2nd day at the range without cleaning it the first time. Not sure if it was my new faux suppressor but it started to become very gasy and the stench got worse and worse. Also started to irritate my eyes. Got home and cleaned it out and noticed caked on gunk on the bolt carrier. Assume this was what was burning as the gun heated up. Also not sure if it was the faux suppressor but didn't think this would've caused it to be gasy since its fake.

Anyways just posting as FYI in case anyone else experienced similar issues.
« Last Edit: August 07, 2018, 11:30:40 PM by hyperpm » Logged
DubageL
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« Reply #26 on: August 08, 2018, 04:51:48 AM »

If youíre referring to page 81, part #4 Teflon sleeve of the manual, they omitted using that part, never updated the manual. Itís only for the smgís for some reason and not used on the semiauto. Per IWI CustomerService. Youíre fine.
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hyperpm
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« Reply #27 on: August 08, 2018, 11:52:38 AM »

If youíre referring to page 81, part #4 Teflon sleeve of the manual, they omitted using that part, never updated the manual. Itís only for the smgís for some reason and not used on the semiauto. Per IWI CustomerService. Youíre fine.

Yes that piece, thanks for the info!
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