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| | |-+  Let me introduce... the RDB Aluminum m-lok handguard
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Author Topic: Let me introduce... the RDB Aluminum m-lok handguard  (Read 13206 times)
LeeMajors
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« Reply #160 on: September 04, 2017, 03:13:40 PM »

I hope the keltec version keeps the pushpin design.
The drawback to the push-pin design is that it's not rock solid. 

We went this direction with a very tight fit in order to keep the rail solid when shooting with a bipod. 

If you look at some of the accuracy videos, you'll see most people get vertical stringing of groups.  That's because the push-pin allows the handguard a bit of wobble, and your shot placement suffers as a result. 

There's nothing up there that needs to be cleaned, so we didn't think it a big deal to lock down the rail semi-permanently.
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st381
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« Reply #161 on: September 04, 2017, 05:05:43 PM »

The QD point on the bottom of the rail by the trigger guard is too far under the trigger guard to be of any use.  In the next iteration moving the QDs to a more forward position would be a good improvement.
I noted that as well.  I have an email into our CAD genius to see about doing just that with all 3 QD holes. 

Can anyone think of why you'd need the m-lok slot at the very rear?  We'll have to eliminate the most rearward m-lok slot to fit the QD holes more forward.

What if you put the QD slot through the raptor rail and into the u-shaped gas block part to use up that dead space on the rail under the gas block?
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LeeMajors
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« Reply #162 on: September 04, 2017, 05:16:22 PM »

The QD point on the bottom of the rail by the trigger guard is too far under the trigger guard to be of any use.  In the next iteration moving the QDs to a more forward position would be a good improvement.
I noted that as well.  I have an email into our CAD genius to see about doing just that with all 3 QD holes. 

Can anyone think of why you'd need the m-lok slot at the very rear?  We'll have to eliminate the most rearward m-lok slot to fit the QD holes more forward.

What if you put the QD slot through the raptor rail and into the u-shaped gas block part to use up that dead space on the rail under the gas block?
There's no space there.  The front stay is in complete contact with the rail on all sides to minimize any play and to lock down the rail, not to mention the bottom is a screw to put a counter-sunk allen head set screw THROUGH the front stay if desired to actually contact the gas block itself and further tighten the rail-to-gas block fit. 

We haven't tried to bipod shoot this yet, that's my plan tomorrow to see how accuracy is affected with a bipod on the rail. 
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st381
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« Reply #163 on: September 04, 2017, 07:38:24 PM »


"... not to mention the bottom is a screw to put a counter-sunk allen head set screw THROUGH the front stay if desired to actually contact the gas block itself and further tighten the rail-to-gas block fit."

I saw that screw hole but did not receive a screw for that location.  What size screw is it?
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LeeMajors
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« Reply #164 on: September 04, 2017, 07:59:37 PM »


"... not to mention the bottom is a screw to put a counter-sunk allen head set screw THROUGH the front stay if desired to actually contact the gas block itself and further tighten the rail-to-gas block fit."

I saw that screw hole but did not receive a screw for that location.  What size screw is it?
We didn't include one because I personally don't think it's necessary with the overall tightness of the handguard but I'll know for sure tomorrow.

It's 6-32 - all of them are except the front two that go into the aluminum thru-stay which are 8-32. 

https://www1.mcmaster.com/#94495a210/=198rg7k
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joelad
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« Reply #165 on: September 05, 2017, 01:03:50 AM »

I'm awaiting a shipment from Brownells: The M-lok rail mount for the AFG2, and their M-lok sling attachment point. I'll post how the AFG2 rail fits when I receive it.
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LeeMajors
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« Reply #166 on: September 05, 2017, 08:54:22 AM »

I'm awaiting a shipment from Brownells: The M-lok rail mount for the AFG2, and their M-lok sling attachment point. I'll post how the AFG2 rail fits when I receive it.
Thanks, I appreciate it.

I mounted to m-lok rails on mine this morning, one on the bottom for my Atlas bipod and one on the right side for my laser flashlight combo.  (the bipod won't be staying on it after the range today).  They had to be wiggled a bit to get past the powder coating but once in they locked up nicely.

The spacing doesn't seem different in the very front 2 slots.  There is, of course, a big space where the front stay mounts, but as for why the spacing problem on the AFG, if there's a problem with larger rail sections that need to mount up on 2 or 3 sequential slots, I need to know about it.

Going to the range shortly to see what kind of accuracy I can get.  It's only a 50 yard range, but it'll do for initial testing. 
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Pokem807
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« Reply #167 on: September 05, 2017, 03:19:03 PM »

Here's my setup with the new handguard.  I had a Magpul AFG installed, but USPS just delivered an Arisaka finger stop and it's awesome.  It only takes up one mlok slot, and is perfect for indexing my hand for manipulating the pressure switch.  I will probably install one on my BCM mid-length and an Aero pistol I'm working on right now.

The flashlight is still a work in progress.  It's a cheap Monstrum light that I bought to see how the setup would work on the RDB.  The mount attaches to the top rail, just in front of the scope mount, and I threaded the switch through the scope mount and rail and then used Gorilla double-sided tape to affix the switch itself to the handguard.  I had to move the charging handle to the right side of the rifle to make this configuration work.  I like this setup, so now I have to find higher quality replacement.

The scope and mount are pretty standard.  The mount is an Aero Precision ultralight mount, and the scope is a PA 1-6 with the KISS reticle.  Love that scope and it's uncluttered reticle.

Still need to get the sling mounted.  The QD mount on the rail is too small, but the rail itself is too thick (also due to the powder coat, and we're talking a few thousandths of an inch).  I may have to remove the rail to resolve the issue, but it's not a big deal.  Anybody come up with a good solution for putting a QD point on the RDB stock?  With all the other attachment points, you'd think the poindexters at KT would've thought about adding one.

Thanks again to LeeMajors for producing the rail.  Me likee.



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st381
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« Reply #168 on: September 07, 2017, 03:59:54 PM »

I'm awaiting a shipment from Brownells: The M-lok rail mount for the AFG2, and their M-lok sling attachment point. I'll post how the AFG2 rail fits when I receive it.
Thanks, I appreciate it.

I mounted to m-lok rails on mine this morning, one on the bottom for my Atlas bipod and one on the right side for my laser flashlight combo.  (the bipod won't be staying on it after the range today).  They had to be wiggled a bit to get past the powder coating but once in they locked up nicely.

The spacing doesn't seem different in the very front 2 slots.  There is, of course, a big space where the front stay mounts, but as for why the spacing problem on the AFG, if there's a problem with larger rail sections that need to mount up on 2 or 3 sequential slots, I need to know about it.

Going to the range shortly to see what kind of accuracy I can get.  It's only a 50 yard range, but it'll do for initial testing. 
How did it do?
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LeeMajors
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« Reply #169 on: September 07, 2017, 09:11:02 PM »

Sorry, been a crazy week.  I have too many irons in the fire. 

I think it did quite well.  There was certainly no vertical stringing.  The down-side is that the target kept swinging lightly with the air on the range - they are old-style wire hanger manual cranks, so they see-saw when the air is on.   

This is at 50 yards.  First two dialing in the scope somewhat close to center, then a 5-shot group, shooting roughly a 1 inch group, .223 caliber projectile = .777 * 2 = 1.6 MOA give or take.  I'm really not that good of a shot quite honestly, I expect some of you to do much better with it. 

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joelad
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« Reply #170 on: September 08, 2017, 03:31:43 PM »

My Magpul parts arrived today. I had to Dremel out the third slot from the front toward the back of the slot. A quarter inch, maybe less. Now for an M-Lok light mount, and a light. I love the Raptor Rail!!!


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« Last Edit: September 08, 2017, 03:34:49 PM by joelad » Logged
HBeretta
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« Reply #171 on: September 08, 2017, 03:36:04 PM »

My Magpul parts arrived today. I had to Dremel out the third slot from the front toward the back of the slot. A quarter inch, maybe less. Now for an M-Lok light mount, and a light. I love the Raptor Rail!!!

looks awesome.
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odinforever2000
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« Reply #172 on: September 10, 2017, 02:50:48 PM »

Oh man I need one of these..
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May God stand between you and harm......in all the empty places you must walk -Ancient egyptian blessing
LeeMajors
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« Reply #173 on: September 10, 2017, 03:04:24 PM »

My Magpul parts arrived today. I had to Dremel out the third slot from the front toward the back of the slot. A quarter inch, maybe less. Now for an M-Lok light mount, and a light. I love the Raptor Rail!!!
Yes, we found the problem.  The manufacturer put too much space in between the front m-lok and the 2nd one.  Approximately .140" (just over 1/8"). 

The issue is being addressed in the 2nd run.  In the meantime, I apologize for the dremeling.  It's only that one slot up front...  :/ 

We only have one powder coat, 2 FDE, and 6 anodized remaining to sell out of our original run of 50.  The 2nd batch should go to manufacturing next week and be ready in time for a Halloween sale.  Things being changed:

1.  Fix front bottom m-lok spacing
2.  Remove bottom QD hole, retaining rear m-lok so people can mount what they want there, including a sling or QD plate. 
3.  Close up rail opening above trigger guard - it ended up being unnecessary.  It'll add .1 oz of weight but helps with rigidity/strength at the rear. 

All in all, for a first run without prototype, this turned out pretty well.  Hope everyone likes theirs.  For those who helped with pre-orders, and ONLY for those who pre-ordered the first run, you can get the new version when it comes out for $129. 

For everyone else, they are at $179 in our store. 

Thanks!
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Frostburg
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« Reply #174 on: September 10, 2017, 11:40:02 PM »

I still havn't installed mine. Do you have a list of all the parts and what their names are so I can more closely follow the instructions?
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st381
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« Reply #175 on: September 11, 2017, 01:19:35 AM »

I still havn't installed mine. Do you have a list of all the parts and what their names are so I can more closely follow the instructions?

I got to tell you that the pics on page 7 of this thread are pretty good representations of what everything is and how it goes together. The hardest part is driving the gas block pin through the u-shaped retaining block but a good hammer and a steady punch will take care of that.  The tight fitment is from the aluminum pin going through the ears of the u-shaped block, the aluminum pin easily fits through the gas block itself.  It was intuitive enough that it took me less than 10 minutes to get it installed.  I guess I'm not understanding why you are so apprehensive. The parts included with mine were:

Two retaining plates for the rear top of the handguard to lock into the handguard tabs on the receiver

Six smaller screws, two for each retaining plate (4), two (1 for each side) for the front retaining block that go through the lower angled part of the handguard

U-shaped block that fits over the gas block

Aluminum pin with threaded holes on each end that goes through the ears of the u-shaped block and the retaining pin hole for the original handguard in the gas block

Two larger screws for each side of the handguard that thread into aluminum pin that holds the u-shaped retaining block to the gas block. The screws go through the vertical sides of the handguard.

Look at the pics I mentioned on page 7 of this thread and it will be self explanatory.
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LeeMajors
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« Reply #176 on: September 11, 2017, 09:21:43 AM »

I still havn't installed mine. Do you have a list of all the parts and what their names are so I can more closely follow the instructions?
All packages were shipped with the ONLY two larger 8-32 screws already screwed into the aluminum thru-stay. 

That means the other six 6-32 screws go the only place there are screw holes.

Obviously the u-shaped chamfers in the back of the small pieces has to face backwards and inwards so that the rail can slide over the two rear posts.  Screw those 4 screws into those 2 rear stays.

Now all that you're left with is the front stay, two 6-32 screws that go into the bottom 45 degree angles, and the collet (the aluminum piece that goes through the front stay and the gas block.

Put a little gun oil around the aluminum collet, remove the two 8-32 screws, line up the front stay hole with the gas block hole, then tap the collet into the hole with an upside down punch so that the internal threads aren't damaged until the collet is equal distance inside the left and right front stay.  The pictures on Page 7 should show you what it looks like enough to do this operation fairly quickly.  One of them shows the collet being inserted, the next shows it seated in position.

Take your rail all the way forward until the barrel inserts at the BACK of the rail, then slide the rail all the way back until the rear posts seat into the rear stays.  Screw your 4 screws on the front, the two 8-32 (the larger ones) go into the gas block collet.  The two smaller ones (6-32) go in the bottom 45 degree holes into the front stay.

Individually blue loctite all the screws one at a time and re-insert (optional step).  Done.
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Electrons540
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« Reply #177 on: September 12, 2017, 06:42:38 PM »

I received my anodized rail Monday. It's super light and the thinner profile fits my hands better. Installation was easy, my only issue was that the rail was a bit tight around the front stay to get into position. Had to tap it with a small nylon hammer to get it into place.



The anodizing is glossy. If it were possible I would choose a flatter black for the rail, but that's my personal preference.
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LeeMajors
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« Reply #178 on: September 12, 2017, 06:56:11 PM »

Noted on the glossy, thank you for the feedback. 

The fitment is supposed to be snug across the gas block.  That's what helps the rigidity. 

Glad you like it!
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joelad
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« Reply #179 on: September 15, 2017, 10:08:32 AM »

I don't find mine glossy at all. It's a nice finish. Smooth, but it has a texture to it. It's hard to describe. Mine slid right on also. Once I tightened it all up, it's rock solid. No movement at all. If I ever buy another RDB, I'll also buy another Raptor Rail.
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